Peter i Doti

”The opportunities and the obstacles in Nepal are attracting the curious mind of a westerner living in his peaceful and wealthy society, where things are well organized and taken care of. To better understand why Nepal, potentially a prosperous country, is poor and backward, was a great motivation for me to go to Nepal” Peter Adsersen reflects on his first year in Sighadi, Doti, Far Western Nepal.

Typical nepali greeting ceremony

Since last year I have been posted with EDC (Equality Development Centre), in Silgadhi, Doti District in Far Western Region of Nepal. Silgadhi is a small town riding on a ridge with a nice view of the surrounding green hills and Seti River flowing 800 meters below us. Doti District is a remote area of Nepal with only one access road connecting Silgadhi with the rest of the country. The distance to the capital Kathmandu is 900 km, or 3 days of driving on hilly roads and through the humid lowlands of Terai. I am here with my wife, Karen, posted with another local NGO in town, also a partner organization of MS Nepal, the country programme of MS.

EDC is a local NGO (non-government organization) established by Dalits, so-called low caste, outcaste or untouchable, according to the ancient ideas of traditional Hindu culture. EDC is dedicated to fight the legal and social disparities affecting Dalits and other disadvantaged groups, and EDC is running programmes with various donors to uplift the poor and marginalized people in Doti and neighboring districts. EDC is practicing a wide range of methods to achieve their vision of an egalitarian society; like advocacy, capacity building, Dalit empowerment, income generating activities and saving and credit groups. My role as DW (development worker) is to be an advisor and resource person to staff and board of EDC, to make the NGO perform better.

The dawn of a new beginning

I found the political situation, one and a half year ago, when we applied for jobs quite interesting. At that time the Seven Parties Alliance (SPA) was approaching the Maoists in attempt to overthrow the autocracy. It did not become less interesting during the 5 months we awaited our departure from February to July last year (2006), when the second Jana Andolaan (people’s movement) took place in Nepal. With bated breath we followed the news from Kathmandu, often reported by a DW from MS Nepal Country Office; and felt relief and joy when the king knelt down and handed the power to the SPA, and the peace process started.

Coming to Nepal

Arriving in Kathmandu shortly after the new era started was on one side positive. People were still thrilled from having brought down the king; the insurgency around the country had ceased, and one could gain access to all parts of Nepal to visit family and friends. We met the optimistic atmosphere everywhere, and we were also infected by the good hopes for the future. On the other side the uncertainty and the void of power were remarkable. Soon we noticed the reluctant enforcement of law and order, when groups and organizations try to pressurize the interim government by illegal means like closing off roads or public services. The persons in charge were apparently not so sure about their mandate, and the authorities did their best to avoid taking sides, in order to please every one, and nurse their image as the good guys from the days of the people’s movement.

A drop in the bucket?

Me in Nepal is like a drop in the bucket; and what could possible be the impact of my presence? Most of the time I am trying to understand; the language, the culture and the people. Nepal is in so many ways different from Denmark; religion, mentality, climate, music, food and traffic, which ever subject I refer to has new meaning to me. This is really challenging and inspiring, there is always something new to learn about e. g. how to cook, how to socialize or how to avoid a car crash! But when I feel weary or lost in my exile, I ask myself what will ever be my contribution to development in Doti in Far Western Region. Not that I am here to make a difference; more likely I am here to lend some kind of assistance through my partner organization. 

Silgadhi, Doti

A Dane in Silgadhi is a striking alien, and therefore an obvious agent of cultural exchange. I feel that my shear presence walking the bazaar of Silgadhi is a reminder to the shop holders and others I pass by, that there is a world outside of Doti where people look and behave differently. In Denmark I am just an ordinary man in casual wear, no one you would notice; but here I am a stranger, 10 inches taller than most people and oddly dressed. Local people often gaze at us, giggle and comment on our appearance behind our back. Many greet us ‘namaste’; people we know, but also old people and often children, sometimes uncertain on our reaction. We greet every one back, and here the cultural exchange begins; we say our ‘namaste’ and try to return the kind gestures.

Many in Nepal think we are extremely rich, but in Denmark we are modest people. However compared to people in Doti we are wealthy, and our life looks like luxury, living in a big house with access to our own car. In our mind we live a simple life here; but arriving from Kathmandu with the back of the car full of goods and advanced equipment, not available in Doti, we look like rich people. We find it is necessary to bring things from our own culture to feel comfortable, and our leisure time is like re-charging the batteries and gaining new energy for new challenges.  

Daal bhat

Our habits of food and meals appear weird to many Nepalese: Daal bhat (local dish with rice and lentils) is not a must for me, I can do fine with out for many days. But if I do not get bread and cheese for several days, I really miss it. I make my tea black and without sugar, but Nepali tea (made with milk and sugar) is also nice once in a while. When I cook my curries with beef or pork, I mix daal (lentils) and tarkari (vegetables) all in the same sauce pan; and I do not regard meat from any animal to be either holy or impure. I do not eat a huge plate, if the food is very good, I enjoy while eating, and let it last long.

Cultural exchange

An important element of DWs (development workers) in the country programme of MS Nepal is the cultural exchange. Posting Danish advisors at local NGOs in Nepal is really challenging of cultural exchange, and the implications are plenty.

Living in Nepal has given us another angle, we have been digging into the Nepali soil, so to speak. When we settled and got an everyday life in Silgadhi, we notice differences from day to day, and new details are revealed from time to time. We have become familiar with our neighborhood, and our attitude changes; what caused annoyance in the beginning we have got used to now, while new things will cause irritation or pleasure. 

The relationship with people we have come to know in Nepal is the most interesting and best quality of long term assignments. Sharing everyday life with partner colleagues allows us to meet each other both in times of happiness and times of troubles. We become familiar with the habits and moods of our counterparts, we talk about what we think and what we like, and the cultural exchange continues. Our counterparts are the best guides to Nepalese culture, they introduce us to new layers, we did not observe in the beginning. The knowledge about culture is another gift we bring along with the heavily loaded suitcases. 

In my culture it is regarded an offence to spit in front of others, but here people regularly clear the throat and spit right at your feet, not to be rude, but because it is a habit. In Denmark if you see men holding hands in public areas, you anticipate they are homosexuals, but here men hold hands in the street, not because they are lovers, just friends. We often talk with people about the differences from Nepali and Danish culture, and explain what we prefer and why we do things our way; this is also cultural exchange. I do not like the spitting, but men holding hands is nice.   

Leave in Denmark

Peter Brix Adsersen